Pictures are coming..... reeeeeel soon!

Haven't gotten to the "doubled" pics yet, but here's a quickie "tutorial" for you:


Look at the pics for the single "full moku", now just after you've stropped the two lines to the top of
your work, strop two more to the BOTTOM of the work at 180 degrees (directly opposite the first
lines) and then work from right to left around the piece... ([1] top) halfhitch RIGHT, ([2] top
halfhitch LEFT, ([3] )bottom halfhitch RIGHT, ([4] ) bottom) halfhitch LEFT, and continue around
and around and around and.... (Sorry, I got dizzy!).  Keep the lines in that order (1,2,3,4 and be
sure you get the directions right... working underneath can be a bit of a "pain in the neck", but the
finished product will be worth the effort.

In the double full and half mokus it is VERY important to be sure you snug down each turn AND
push all the lines up into contact with the previous turn to get a nice, tight appearance, AND to
help prevent "precessing": A natural problem since EVERYONE is stronger on one side than the
other and, over a distance, the stronger side will pull lines tighter, leading to the crossing points
tending to move toward that strong side.   A centre line down the work will give you a guide, but
snugging down and fairing up will go a long way to a straight run.  Also, snugging up and fairing
up presents a more solid surface that, once preserved, will produce a far more watertight surface.



The doubled half-moku is a bit trickier to start:  Strop all four lines at the same time, with two at
the top (0 degrees) and then one at 90 degrees and one at 270 degrees, or two at 12:00, one at
3:00 and one at 9:00.   The idea here is to have the moku go from 12:00 to 9:00 (3:00) and then
reverse itself and come back to 12:00, so you're starting two lines at 3 and 9 to make the effect
look like a continuous coxcomb.  Start this one at the 9:00 and halfhitch RIGHT, then at the 12:00,
take the THIRD line and halfhitch LEFT, THEN the SECOND line and halfhitch RIGHT and then
the fourth line at 3:00 and halfhitch LEFT.  Snug all down well, and continually fair things up AS
YOU GO.  This one is unforgiving of any errors  
(A-HA! NOW we know why I haven't done the pictures, innit?)  and it
gets VERY tight VERY fast, so don't let more than two turns pass before fairing things up.   

If this works for you, you'll wind up with crossing "X" patterns at about 10:30, 12:00 and 1:30 and
reverse points at 9:00 and 3:00.   It is, by any standard, the very best of the coxcombs for
"gripping factor" as it provides so many diamonds, but it is also the most infuriating of them all to
make look really good.



One thing to remember, MOST people will NOT notice a slightly off-line "X" point,  but they make
my teeth hurt.  If you're doing this for a "wannabee" boater who just wants a "pretty" for his wheel
or walking stick, then don't get your panties in a bunch about small "oopsies", but if they know the
value of a fine coxcomb, try your very best to get it as right as you can.

Practice on a 1.5" OD piece of PVC (local hardware store) with some 3/8" line or VERY small
clothesline before attempting the curved surface of a wheel...  Or, get some #15B line from
MARTY COMBS  and use that... it's a nice cotton line that handles well and you can use it for a
multitude of knotting projects.

DON'T FORGET THE "DUMMY RUN"  to determine how long a line you need to do the job and
keep the line either "hanked" up (I find that this tangles at my feet) or get some small mesh net
bags to keep the coiled line in to prevent tangling and keep the line clean.


Finishing depends on your taste.  If you want the "Old Navy" look,  one coat of orange shellac and
then two coats of a LIGHT colored varnish will darken it up nicely.  Just the light varnish will
darken it much less and give a golden colour, clear polyurethane floor finish will essentially only
darken it a bit, but you should experiment to find your own colour scheme and suit the finish to the
line used (nylon or dacron, stay away from the varnishes and stick with poly;  cotton lines you can
really have fun with, but EXPERIMENT!

Turksheads:  apply your turksheads AFTER you have completed the coxcombing and have
preserved it however you have chosen.  Once applied, preserve them the SAME WAY you did the
wheel/rail/stick/whatever.   This prevents water creepage under the turkshead and potential

Oh:  you can always PAINT the work as well.... some very pretty wheels have been done with
white on the wheel and alternating red and blue turksheads (if you have a six spoked wheel) and I
once did a German vessel's wheel with the wheel in yellow and black and red turksheads.  (We
drank a LOT of schnapps that nite!  I don't think I'll ever hear the "Deutschland Lied" again without
a small headache. )

SO:  clear as mud, no doubt: Feel free to ask ANY questions and thanks both for the email AND
for reminding me that I've got to get back to updating the site.


Tie knots.



If you have comments, suggestions, questions or want to do a tutorial for the site, please EMAIL ME and  let me know!

Love to see pictures of your projects, both under construction as well as finished!

Fair Winds!

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Half and Full Mokus
Last updated  Nov 02 2010
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